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CNJ staff photo: Kevin Wilson
Pat Cummings of Fritch, Texas, pulls a load of cotton candy out of the metal bowl Tuesday night at the Curry County Fair. Mullins said a 16-ounce cup of sugar and flavoring makes about 10 bags of the treat.

Feasting at the fair

Iconic foods such as funnel cakes, and turkeys legs seasonal favories

Fair time means the cooking oil is hot. It means the drinks are cool. And it’s pretty much the time everybody looks forward to those once-a-year food favorites.

The Curry County Fair is no exception, as vendors from across New Mexico and Texas sell foodstuffs that just don’t seem reasonable during the other 51 weeks of 2009.

“They’re OK with spending a little more money,” said Debbie Mitchell at the Sweets and Eats booth located in the center of the Curry County Fairgrounds with other food merchants, “because it’s a once-a-year thing.”

Vendors gave the same reason why all of these foods (which combined violate any recommended diet) only gain traction during the fair. Just as people don’t drink eggnog in the summer, avoid turkey and stuffing until November, and are preconditioned to avoid a funnel cake in February.

But for all the special feelings associated, the staples of a fair meal aren’t that difficult.

Funnel cakes

What is it: It’s a fried piece of batter, about the size of a paper plate.

How is it made: Chris Lopez said the batter includes milk, water, sugar, baking soda, salt and flour. Lopez makes big batches at a time, including a five-pound bag of flour, so the batter gets mixed with a drill.

The batter is then ladled into a plastic funnel and poured into 350-degree oil. The funnel produces a layered effect.

“Once we see the bottom is golden brown,” Lopez said, “we flip it over.”

Customers then go with powdered sugar and/or cinnamon, though Lopez says some of the more extreme funnel cake outfits offer toppings such as caramel, chocolate and fruit.

Why it’s good: Lopez said the food is similar to a waffle in taste and texture, and it’s easy to break into small pieces.

 

Turkey legs

What is it: It’s a lot like a chicken leg, except the average serving is much bigger. Fred Gilmore of Amarillo said the average turkey leg is about two pounds when it comes to him from the supplier. A case of 15 costs around $40, but Gilmore said he’s gotten better and worse prices from various meat suppliers.

“It’s a lot like cattle,” Gilmore said. “It changes every day. That’s why you try to buy from two or three companies.”

How it’s made: A giant propane smoker Gilmore brings with him can cook about 150 legs at once.

But Gilmore says he only cooks about 50 a day and gives the handful of leftover legs to fair personnel so there’s no waste.

The raw leg is coated with smoke sauce and stays in the smoker for about five-and-a-half hours. Gilmore starts prepping the first batch at 5 a.m. and puts more in around noon for the evening run.

Why it’s good: “It tastes like a good sweet ham,” Gilmore said, and the size of the leg means you’re not hungry when it’s over.

 
Roast corn

What is it: One of the simplest foods is a cob of corn on a stick.

How it’s made: Sandra Delgado of Dexter said the roaster behind the trailer cooks corn for about 20-45 minutes, depending on the size of the corn and the temperature of the roaster. Delgado said a good roaster temperature is 650 degrees.

The corn is coated with butter and given to the customer, who chooses from about a dozen spices on a counter.

Why it’s good: “(Roasting) brings out the flavor,” Delgado said. “Boiling it takes flavor away.”

Lemonade

What is it: Lemon juice, water, sugar and ice.

How it’s made: Mitchell said she uses anywhere from two (20 ounces) to six (44 ounces) lemons for the juice, which is then added to the ice and prepackaged mix of sugar water.

On a good day, she goes through about 600 lemons.

Why it’s good: “Taste it,” Mitchell said, and you’ll know why a fresh lemon beats pre-packaged drinks.

Cotton candy

What is it: A puff of sugar, sold in either red (vanilla) or blue (raspberry).

How it’s made: Pat Cummings of Fritch, Texas, said water is the enemy of the food. A cup of sugar is pulled from an airtight container, where it’s poured into the center of the bowl. The bowl heats the sugar, but Cummings doesn’t know the temperature — she knows it’s good when the dial hits the red zone.

The sugar melts and gets spread across the bowl, as it quickly dries in stringy format. It’s then bagged — Cummings said health departments no longer allow paper cones — and is ready for the tearing. A 16-ounce cup produces about 10 bags.

Cummings said after the food is finished, water’s still an enemy, and the worst thing the customer can do is lick their fingers midway through. What’s left of the candy will bond to the wet fingers.

Why it’s good: It’s simple, and it keeps for weeks if the bag stays sealed, Cummings said.

She noted she’s had some leftover bags from shows that were still good a month later.

Fair schedule

Wednesday: Dairy day
10 a.m. — Dairy heifer show
10 a.m. — Exhibit halls open
2 p.m. — Junior market goat show
3 p.m. — Booster lamb show
3:30 p.m. — Junior market lamb show
4 p.m. — Commercial exhibits open
7 p.m. — Rabbit show
5 p.m. — Team roping
6:30 p.m. — Little Buckaroo Rodeo
8 p.m. — DJ, food court dance area

Thursday: Special needs day
10 a.m. — Special needs day activities
10 a.m. — Exhibit halls open
11:30 a.m. — Special needs citizens lunch
3 p.m. — Junior breeding cattle show
4 p.m. — Commercial exhibits open
5 p.m. — Junior market steer show
7 p.m. — Youth pet show
7 p.m. — Demolition derby
8 p.m. — DJ, food court dance area
9 p.m. — Zumbale, Tobias Rene, Special Events Center

Friday: 4-H and FFA Day
10 a.m. — Exhibit halls open
3:30 p.m. — Singles horseshoe pitching contest
4 p.m. — Commercial exhibits open
6:30 p.m. — Junior livestock sale
7 p.m. — Square dancers
8 p.m. — DJ, under the grandstand
6 p.m.-10 p.m. — Live country nite

Saturday: Youth and Pioneer Day
8 a.m. — Arena cross qualifying races
9 a.m. — Great American Turtle Race
10 a.m. — Exhibit halls open
10 a.m. — Commercial exhibits open
10 a.m. — Old Timer Celebration
10 a.m. — Mixed teams horseshoe pitching contest
10:30 a.m. — Youth day
Noon — Old timer luncheon
7:30 p.m. — Arena cross finals
8 p.m. — DJ, under the grandstand
8 p.m.— Charla Corn, Special Events Center
9 p.m. — Jason Boland and the Stragglers, Special Events Center

 


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